1. Land preparation
The flat land can be used for whole land preparation and belt preparation, and the base fertilizer is applied before the preparation of the ground, 4000-5000 kg per mu. The whole garden is deeply turned 30~50cm, the flat belt is 1~1.2m wide, and the bed depth is 60~80cm. The soil and fertilizer are evenly mixed and filled into the ditch. The gentle slope can be used to repair the slope terrace. Planting points can be used to dig 60×60×80 cm large pits. The mantle and the ground can be directly digging pits. When backfilling, 25-50 kg of organic fertilizer should be mixed. The whole land preparation should be carried out in the previous year or one season in advance.
Second, planting
When planting pepper, you must choose the local high-yield variety. The seedlings are strong and strong, the root system is developed, the top buds are full without pests and diseases and mechanical damage, the ground diameter is 0.8 cm, and the plant height is more than 30 cm. In arid areas, for planting, the planting density can be 3 × 4 m, 2 × 4 m, 2 × 3 m, and the number of plants per mu is 74, 83, and 111, respectively. The planting density should also consider the local site conditions and natural conditions. At the same time, it is also considered to have enough tree trays and intercropping, and about 55 plants will be planted after the survival. It can be planted in spring and autumn. In the spring, it is carried out before the sprouting of the pepper, and it is best to plant the harvest in the autumn from October to November. Before planting, put the seedlings in clear water (about 0.3% of a small amount of urea in water) and soak for 12 to 24 hours. Cut off the broken roots. When planting, place the seedlings vertically in the center of the pit. After filling one third of the soil, lift the saplings upwards to make the roots stretch tightly with the soil, and then fill in the ground. And build a planting circle with a diameter of about one meter in the surrounding area, then water the fixed root water and replenish the soil.
Third, field management
1. Deeply raking grass, can be carried out from autumn to soil freezing, shallow digging under the canopy. Deeply outside the canopy (be careful not to hurt the root), dig 1 to 2 feet deep between the rows, combined with fertilization, sand should be added to the sticky soil to improve the poor structure of the soil.
2. Soil and soil change: soil can prevent water from evaporating; changing soil can increase fertility and eliminate pests and diseases. Soil replacement is generally carried out before the soil freezes.
3. Fertilization: Fertilization can be divided into three methods: base fertilizer, top dressing and foliar spray. The base fertilizer is taken immediately after picking the fruit, and the organic fertilizer is mainly used, and the phosphate fertilizer is mixed. The number is determined according to the size of the tree. Generally, the tree in the fruit-bearing period can be applied with 30~50 kg of organic fertilizer, and the top dressing is also called composting. The main application of nitrogen fertilizer is 2 to 4 times a year, that is, pre-flowering fertilizer. After the flower, fertilizer, strong fruit fertilizer, fruit harvesting, the method is to divide the six sections around the crown, the first to dig one, three, five sections, the second to dig two, four, six sections. It is not necessary to dig a small root when fertilizing, and the small root can be cut to achieve the purpose of pruning. Foliar spray is also a once-fertilizer, also called external fertilization. It is simple and easy to use, and it can be used quickly. It can be absorbed in 15 minutes to two hours. Foliar spray can avoid soil compaction. Improve leaf photosynthesis. It can also improve the breathing intensity, improve the nutrient status of the roots, and promote the metabolism of the whole tree. However, foliar spray fertilizer can not replace the soil fertilization. Foliar spray fertilizer should be used in the summer before 10 o'clock in the morning and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon. Up to five urea sprays. Spraying once in the next 5 days is appropriate, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate, gibberellin and boric acid can be added during the later spraying to increase the fruit setting rate. Especially in the formation of young fruit is more important, water spray can also play a certain role in improving the fruit setting rate.
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